Tailoring Perspectives: Bagasáo and HA.MÜ

PHOTOGRAPHY Belg Belgica
CREATIVE DIRECTION Markarvin

From the sharp lines of tailored suits to the innovative designs that push the boundaries of men’s fashion, Rajo Laurel, Kelvin Morales, Joseph Bagasao of Bagasáo, Abraham Guardian of HA.MÜ, Nina Amoncio of Antonina and Renz Reyes have no doubt left a mark in the industry. But these designers are not just shaping the future of menswear – they’re redefining it.

In a candid conversation, the designers explore the evolving landscape of men’s fashion in the Philippines, reflect on the challenges they’ve faced along the way and then some. Discover their insights as they share their journey and vision for the future of menswear.

How did each of you first become interested in menswear?

Abraham Guardian (AG): Ever since college, I wanted to make clothes for big-sized men who are not really into basic men’s clothing but want something more particular and playful.

Joseph Bagasáo (JB): It began when I started making outerwear and pants. I leaned towards more of the menswear shape because I like tailoring and sharp lines. My eyes always land on sharp pieces, tailored finishings and things like that. It’s a natural progression for my brand to create pieces that can be worn by men without them feeling like they’re wearing women’s clothes.

In what ways has menswear evolved over the last decade in the Philippines and where do you see it heading?

AG: I think menswear has become very androgynous. There are more men out there who are more comfortable wearing oversized pieces. There are more men who are experimental with the shirts they buy. Some guys want to have basics but want each basic piece to have a special detail to it, as compared to before, where I think men were very traditional. Now they’re more open-minded.

JB: Right now, people are more open. It’s not based on whether it’s men’s or womenswear anymore. It’s part of our job to make clothes that blend seamlessly with whoever wants to wear them. It’s looking bright just because people are more open and not drawn into the identity of a jacket, shorts or pants.

What are the biggest challenges you’ve faced in the menswear industry and how did you overcome them?

AG: I think for HA.MÜ, it was trying to interject ourselves into the market. In the beginning, even for womenswear, it was challenging. A lot of people back then would always want something elegant versus something experimental. When we overcame that, that’s when our female customers started pulling their partners into the picture as well. And so, from there, we slowly started observing what men would pick out. The challenge at first was that these men didn’t understand that menswear can also be something that isn’t so black and white all the time, because it shouldn’t be so formulated.

JB: My challenge has always been studying different kinds of fits that I could offer to the market. At Bagasáo, we create pieces that can easily blend with one’s wardrobe, whatever gender you may be. I think that’s the most challenging for me, making sure that our menswear pieces fit as well as how our womenswear does.

What advice would you give to emerging designers who want to break into menswear?

AG: Always start from the root identity of your brand but take into consideration that you want to start somewhere not simple and not safe, but a starting point where it’s going to meet your branding in an approachable way. Once you get the hang of it, slowly start interjecting your brand identity a bit more and more.

JB: For any designer who wants to start creating a brand, you have to be patient and want it because fashion, in general, is not easy to be in. I think the most important thing is not to rush. Take your time getting to know or figuring out what you want your brand to be or who you are as a designer because that will be your advantage amongst thousands of brands coming out every year. When you start from there, no one can take that away from you because that’s your creativity, spirit and roots. Spend time getting to know who you are as a brand, identify where you want to be in the market and stick with it. You have to have thick skin.