Michael Rider's first standalone menswear show for Celine is full of clothes that keep changing your mind.

Michael Rider's show notes weren't much help: "Packing light,” “good time shirts,” “making do with a few great things,” and “style." They read more like reminders than an explanation, which felt about right because the collection never really explained itself either.The first looks featured tailoring. Then someone walked out wearing a laced-up tank beneath a sharp coat. A few exits later there were battered sneakers. Then monk straps. Then ballet flats. There were trousers cut close to the leg, others with much more room, romantic shirts, weathered jackets and chunky wooden beads.

There was no use in categorizing the collection. Instead, your eye wandered to the little things. Details like shirt pockets crept higher up, sweater elbows arrived in leather, and shirt cuffs were extended. Right when you thought things would get simple, you'd sight a muscle tank laced in the back.The coats were long and relaxed but not in a dramatic or overwhelming way. The shirts were the same in that some were crisp, others soft. But what they all had in common was the slightly rumpled ease that's become Rider's signature.Typically, precious details like a satin cummerbund, an old-looking brooch, and silk squares were styled in a casual way.

Rider mentioned after the show that everyone in the studio tries on the clothes. It explained why the collection had the feel of garments fitted on real people rather than on mannequins. Looking back, it was obvious.

 CELINE Men's Printemps/Été 2027 show

Celine Men’s Spring/Summer 2027. Courtesy of Celine.

Celine Men’s Spring/Summer 2027 Doesn't Pick a Side

L'OFFICIEL HOMMES PHILIPPINES JUNE 2026 - James Reid ₱600

Celine Men’s Spring/Summer 2027 Doesn't Pick a Side

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