The Nonlinear: Meet Alyssa Marie Groeneveld of AMG

PHOTOGRAPHY Ladislav Kyllar

STYLING AND CONSULTATION Mirko Pedone

Summer in Manila has been unbearably hot, but across the globe, London-based Dutch-Filipino designer Alyssa Marie Groeneveld is already putting the finishing touches on the Autumn/Winter 2024 collection of AMG, her eponymous brand.

Titled Heartshape, Groeneveld’s newest release stars a cast of imaginary characters. “I envisioned my personal experiences with grief and loss reflected in a diverse group of individuals, each using their bedroom as a safe space,” she shares. “Some are recovering from a hangover, others are working...some are simply tired, while others seek comfort in coziness.” In the same way, grieving is never linear, so too is what it creates.

And comfort can be a statement, declares Groeneveld. Heartshape marries streetwear references with kooky tailoring to create cozy, cocooning pieces that are bulbous and inflated in the most unexpected places. Groeneveld’s specialty is reworking: a majority of her garments are draped with secondhand clothing sourced via Vinted and eBay. In an industry where the word “reworked” is met with some contention, Groeneveld sees it as a means for innovation, spinning new narratives and perspectives from found forms.

“Using these existing garments, I employ a freeform draping technique on the mannequin, guided by my intuition. There are no patterns involved. This approach makes for a dynamic, organic creative process.”

Let’s talk about your latest collection. What were your inspirations for it?

My latest collection is called Heartshape, inspired by the personal grief I had to process over the past months. [Within a short span of time], I had lost some people who were important to me. For some time I couldn’t leave my house; I really took the time to sit with my pain and turn it into something strong and beautiful.

How did AMG begin? What are your dreams for it?

After graduating from Central Saint Martins in May 2022, I started my own business. It all began organically, when the multi-brand online platform APOC STORE and Tokyo-based select shop Radd Lounge showed interest in selling my clothes. That interest inspired me to create my Spring/Summer 2023 collection.

I found a lovely studio in east London, and from there, AMG gained a lot of [traction]. Now, I dedicate myself full time to my brand, which in itself is immensely fulfilling. Recently, I moved into a larger studio space, symbolising growth and progress.

My focus remains on the daily act of creating and draping. I’m not fixated on specific achievements; rather, I believe that significant opportunities will come in due time. For me, it’s about embracing the process and finding fulfillment in the journey.

Could you tell us a little bit about your career background?

Prior to launching AMG, I was part of a collective-based brand in Amsterdam from 2016 until early 2020. This journey began after completing my BA in Rotterdam alongside some classmates.

During my time with the collective, I developed skills in team management and meeting deadlines. It was also a period of self-discovery, where I unearthed my own drive and deep passion for my craft. However, I eventually felt the need to expand beyond Amsterdam’s limitations. To pursue broader horizons and challenge myself further, I decided to pursue my master’s degree in London. This move allowed me to operate on larger scales and to focus on solo growth.

Let’s talk about Heartshape, which seems to have a deconstructed, inflated, streetwear feel to it. What were your inspirations for it?

My main inspiration is music. Actually, it was music that got me interested in fashion. As a kid, artists like Pharrell, Ciara, Eve, Kanye West, and others captivated me not only with their music but also with their fashion choices. I was always so amused with how they dressed. I wanted to style them and make clothes for them. I danced hip-hop in my teenage years and that also significantly influenced my personal style. Even today, my wardrobe reflects the influence of both music and dance on my fashion choices.