From ancient armor styles to contemporary tailor-made fashion declarations, the combination of the innate masculinity of the chest armor combined with the exaggeration in the woman's lines captured the curiosity of the suits. the most creative in fashion village.

From the Schiaparelli brand Kim's Christmas outfit imitating the green giants to Zendaya's appearance at the Critics Choice Awards last year with Tom Ford's fuschia pink metallic chest armor, fashion item This has never stopped stirring up public opinion.

Thời trang cao cấp Schiaparelli Xuân Hè 2021

The breastplate fashion is molded as a body shell, basically surrounding the chest like a sculpture. Chest armor was the most recent appearance in designer Daniel Roseberry's Spring Summer 2021 luxury fashion collection, and while it feels pioneering, it is still one of the outfits that have been discovered. throughout fashion history.

Kim Kardashian trong trang phục giáp ngực của Schiaparelli

The story of the origin of the breastplate goes back to ancient Greece. Created as a protective armor and designed to mimic human ideal, chest armor is typically made from copper and boiled leather. Eventually becoming a popular military item around the fourth and fifth centuries, the protective outer layer has since become another interpretive concept in the fashion field. In the age of corsets, magazines and style lovers touted what is called a "cuirasse bodice" (roughly translated: a sheathed gown that snaps over the hips to create a long skirt shape.) Popular in the 1880s, it was designed with the top of the dress long, hugging the hips and then extending into the lower skirt part. Nearly a century later, breastplate has appeared on the high fashion catwalks. In 1969, the esteemed designer Yves Saint Laurent ordered the talented sculptor Claude Lalanne to replicate the bust and bust of model Veruschka von Lehndorff for the Fall Winter "Empreintes" collection. The pieces continue to be combined into two crepe voile layered dresses for the fashion house's Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2002 collection.

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Japanese designer Issey Miyake, however, had another experiment explored and verified the destructive relationship between clothing and body with the 1980 Fall Winter collection. Like the legendary Grace Jones, Miyake's futuristic metallic plastic undershirt continues to mark the history of body pattern in fashion.

Thiết kế của Issey Miyake trong BST Thu / Đông 1980

Grace Jones trong mẫu thiết kế ấn tượng từ Issey Miyake 

Just as erotic, designers including Thierry Mugler, Hussein Chalayan and Jean Paul Gaultier made a similar mark with breast plates throughout the 1980s and 1990s. Thierry Mugler's famous motorcycle-rider cowl, one fascinated with the way breast armor could transform a woman into a mechanical look.

Jerry Hall trong thiết kế của Thierry Mugler, 1979

BST Xuân / Hè 1992 của Thierry Mugler

BST Thu / Đông 1995 của Hussein Chalayan

BST Couture Thu / Đông 1995 của Thierry Mugler

BST Haute Couture Xuân / Hè 1995 của Paco Rabanne

BST Haute Couture Xuân / Hè 1999 của Jean Paul Gaultier

BST Xuân / Hè 2001 của Yves Saint Laurent

And then it was Alexander McQueen's turn. This designer is famous for the sudden mutations and changes from female shapes to strange shapes. Using materials such as metal and leather, McQueen gives a more disruptive impression to the chest plate. Discover armor-like qualities, various variations of the British designer while simultaneously exuding power and a feeling of oppressive enveloping, combining beauty with a weirdness that only McQueen knows how create.

"I want people to be terrified by the women in my clothes."

BST Xuân / Hè 1996 của Alexander McQueen

Thiết kế của Alexander McQueen cho BST Xuân / Hè 1998 của Givenchy

Thiết kế của Alexander McQueen cho BST Thu / Đông 1999 của Givenchy

Thiết kế của Shaun Leane cho BST BST Thu / Đông 1999 của Alexander McQueen

BST Xuân / Hè 1999 của Alexander McQueen

BST Xuân / Hè 2001 của Alexander McQueen

BST Xuân / Hè 2005 của Alexander McQueen

BST Thu / Đông 2007 của Alexander McQueen

Last year, the outfit that dominated the fashion season were Tom Ford's metallic plastic bras on the Spring Summer 2020 runway, inspired by YSL's collaboration with French sculptor Claude Lalanne. After appearing on the cover of Harper's Bazaar magazine performed by Gwyneth Paltrow, works from the famous collection were quickly included in many fashion commentaries. Becoming a top choice among A-list artists like Kate Hudson, the bra had a dazzling moment when Zendaya appeared unforgettable at the Critics Choice Awards 2020, making the chrome armor its mark. in everyone's mind. According to Zendaya's stylist Law Roach, her armor is specially molded to her personal shape by a custom 3D scan of the actress's body. Lured by that beauty at first sight, Roach immediately thought of the designs of Saint Laurent and Issey Miyake.

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Even Roseberry's striking Schiaparelli breastcoats were influenced by the past, especially in tribute to the Italian fashion house's Surreal founder. Inspired by dummies that accurately simulate anatomical images that Elsa Schiaparelli maintains in the workspace, Roseberry recreates similar silhouettes. Scattered among the demarcated collections are bizarre variations of the sculptures, including the gold breastplate of Madonna and Child, the six-pack, molded leather, and a pouch. abdomen with matching perforations. To counteract the expectations of couture that is consistent with traditional and predictable notions of femininity, Roseberry said in an interview, “I am starting to think, couture seems Is there the wrong part, when it requires or expects a woman who wants to look super feminine and elegant as if coming out of a movie Bridgerton? "He went on to explain," That wasn't the picture. men's, but a woman with toned abs. "

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It seems that Roseberry was inspired by Alexander McQueen's book, who once said, “I design clothes because I don't want women to look pure and innocent… I want women to look stronger… I don't Like women being taken advantage of… I don't like men whistling at women on the street. I think they deserve more respect. I like men who keep their distance from women, I like men dumbfounded at an entrance. I witnessed a woman being beaten to death by her husband. I know what prejudice is about women… I want people to feel awe at the women in my clothes ”. Meaningful of protection and combat, breast armor later became a fitting symbol for the modern woman. Today, breast armor represents power. They are worn by the most famous people and discovered by newcomers in fashion like Sinead O'Dwyer. Chest armor is the perfect choice for ideal expression of body positivity, to themes about fierce female warriors who reclaim strength, are protected by armor and ready to fight.

L'Documentary: Find Out About the History of Bra Armor Models in Fashion

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