L'Officiel Philippines speaks to Stephanie Ayson, the visionary force behind Pranca. Discover a jeweled world where material meets narrative.

In the world of fine jewelry, many Filipinas turn to Pranca for their organic and sculptural designs. The brand&rsquo;s name finds its roots in authenticity, being inspired by the Filipino term "prangka" denoting a candid sincerity. This has become their ethos&ndash;a principle that guides the brand. &ldquo;Pranca is that same expression of honesty,&rdquo; says founder Steph Ayson. &ldquo;We craft bold pieces made to be intriguingly different. Each piece is an invitation to be as you are, no matter how different.&rdquo;

Photo courtesy of Pranca

The tradition of jewelry artistry runs deep in Ayson's family. Her mother Jesusa Malig-Ayson founded JMA Jewelry, a known presence in the Philippines for over two decades. In 2017, a local concept store approached JMA Jewelry for product consignment. Leveraging her role in operations and her education from the Gemological Institute of America, Ayson spearheaded the project and established Pranca.
Despite her initial challenges in jewelry design and drawing, Ayson leaned on her team of skilled artisans. She notes, &ldquo;It was precisely my vision and our goldsmiths' artistry that makes Pranca special.&rdquo; The brand unveiled a distinct design direction, marking a departure from JMA&rsquo;s classic and refined designs towards a bolder earthen aesthetic.
&ldquo;It is an exciting time in the Philippine jewelry industry,&rdquo; shares Ayson. &ldquo;Women are more welcoming of this playful approach to jewelry&ndash;exploring asymmetrical pieces, mixing colors in gemstones and metals, styling themselves beyond the traditional "matching" preference, buying earrings per piece instead of in pairs, and adorning different parts of their bodies.&rdquo;

When thinking of Pranca, what may come to mind are their pieces crafted with baroque pearls, which are recognized for their non-spherical, irregular shapes. While these pearls were once considered less valuable, Pranca embraces their uniqueness, stating on their website, &ldquo;The oddness has won our favor.&rdquo; Other pieces that elegantly celebrate imperfection are the Curo Necklace and Uapa Ring. Through their winding golden grooves, they show Pranca's artistic ability to challenge the traditional mold of fine jewelry. The brand's commitment to embracing particularity shows in each thoughtfully crafted piece, inviting wearers to express themselves through adornment.
Meaning finds its way into every Pranca piece&mdash;imbued by its designers, artisans, and wearers. Ayson aptly says, &ldquo;[Jewelry] is a finishing touch, a vessel of meaning.&rdquo; To artisans, goldsmithing, silversmithing, and stone setting represent a generations-long familial craft. For designers like Ayson, the finished product represents the culmination of creative vision and a deep connection to the brand's heritage. And to the wearer, the significance is often deeply personal.

Ayson sees women not simply as wearers of jewelry but as storytellers. She shares that women often attach narratives to their Pranca pieces.&ldquo;Now and then we come across women who share with us the different meanings and milestones they attach to their Pranca pieces&ndash;may it be a mother-and-child story in our Curo necklace, a single-and-proud purchase of our Uapa Ring, or a big career move piece in our Porma earrings,&rdquo; expresses Ayson. Pieces often go beyond the material aspect, embodying the deeper significance that jewelry holds for women. &ldquo;It is this very nature of women to see beyond the material aspect of jewelry that excites us to create piece after piece, collection after collection.&rdquo;

When it comes to men and jewelry, Pranca recognizes that the narrative extends beyond gender boundaries. &ldquo;The idea of feminine versus masculine jewelry is being blurred. Men too are becoming more open to styles that were then deemed as exclusive for women,&rdquo; says Ayson. &ldquo;Nowadays, more men wear pearls, dangling earrings, pav&eacute; pieces, rose gold metals, and it is always a welcome sight for us at Pranca.&rdquo;
The value placed on personal narratives is part of a broader commitment. Ayson says that conscious jewelry embodies values that are &ldquo;considerate of its materials, supportive and respectful of its artisans, and mindful of how it influences consumer behavior.&rdquo; Understanding its part in the wider fashion industry, Pranca is dedicated to creating only what is needed.&nbsp;
To put philosophy into practice, the brand produces on a made-to-order basis, ensuring the pieces are made carefully and thoughtfully by hand. This speaks not only to Pranca's commitment to quality but also towards sustainability and staff well-being. As another safeguard against overconsumption, Pranca introduces multi-way designs, such as the Hilera earring&mdash;a bar earring featuring a detachable keshi pearl. The design not only enhances versatility but also allows owners to update their pieces easily. Should wearers seek an upgrade, Ayson guides them on repurposing strategies, helping clients breathe new life into their existing pieces.

Since its inception in 2017, Pranca has undergone a graceful evolution, unveiling six collections and cultivating meaningful collaborations with like-minded creatives such as The Fore, Fifth Wall Fest, Mikee Naval, and Carl Jan Cruz. They&rsquo;ve also expanded from a one-woman team in 2017 to a growing family in December 2022. Their inaugural pop-up event, Sala in November 2023, also shows growing possibilities in the way Pranca communicates with their customers.
As Pranca shapes the narrative of Philippine fine jewelry, Steph Ayson's reflection on the Simuno Necklace resonates deeply. Initially designed during a collaboration with The Fore in 2019, the necklace found its place as the main influence for Pranca's best-selling collection &ldquo;The Simuno Necklace reminds me of the value of patience, and that there is a time and place for your ideas to flourish and take center stage.&rdquo; The story of Simuno mirrors Pranca's journey&mdash;balancing patience, passion, and creativity to craft significant pieces, each destined for its unique moment to shine.

A version of this story appears in L'Officiel Philippines' March 2024 print issue.

Meet the Inspiring Filipina Behind Local Jewelry Brand Pranca

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